How to properly introduce new fish into your aquarium

There are two areas of introducing new fish into an aquarium that you must be aware of:

1. Fish Quarantine

Fish quarantine is one big, singular factor that must be observed strictly before you can be sure that your new fish is of good health and not an apostle of doom for the other inmates. Most new fishkeepers don’t take consider this very important factor.

For the benefit of intending aquarists, quarantine in the fish world refers to the physical and chemical treatment of new fishes (either imported or caught from the wild) to rid them of disease and restlessness before introduction into a new environment,

A small quarantine tank (30x20x25cm) is advisable for any serious aquarist. The alternative is to be sure that your pet shop has a functional quarantine section to cater for bacterial, fungal and viral diseases.

This is a sure guarantee against fish deaths. The unfortunate thing with most shops in the country is the lack of space and inadequate expertise to build and administer the prophylaxis procedure on new fish, as the procedure is sure to last at least nigh days! To the average aqua-investor, this is an unnecessary tie down of capital and you know what that means.

Admittedly, the expense incurred on quarantine by way of chemical purchase e. g. copper sulphate, wescodyne, malachite green, teremycin etc) is high. This is more or less reflected on the final sales price of the fish, which is slightly higher in our shop. But, this would pay you off in the long run, as it is unlikely that you will complain of fish deaths any longer.

I am quite sure, some fish farmers reading this column would be more concerned about the application of this procedure to solve their farm problems especially those with hatcheries or those who stock with post fry and fingerlings.

2. Feeding New Fish

When you just introduce a new fish to aquarium tank it’s necessary to feed the fish. Though this will not be instant because no matter how carefully you add the fish to your aquarium tank they will look very unhappy for a while.

Thus it’s necessary that you turn the flights out, and leave them overnight to get used to their new home first before thinking of feeding them. Then feed fish with aquarium fish food with fish flakes the next day, this will make the fish feel at home.

If you already have an established tank, it is advisable to quarantine new fish before adding them to an existing populated, and the cheapest way to do this is to purchase a plastic tank which will need no gravel or plants.

This can be used solely for quarantine and as a hospital tank.

Leave the fish in this tank for about three days during which any disease harbored by the fish would be evident for which it can be treated using available chemicals from your dealer. The fish can then be introduced into the tank in the same way as before.

When you add new fish to an established community, there will probably be a certain amount of harassment of the new arrivals by the original fish. Try to divert their attention by giving them a good feed when the fish are introduced.

Clicks instead of good boy for dog training

The first major improvement in dog training since choke chains and spiked collars, click and treat has quickly establishing itself in becoming a big hit in the world of dog training. Currently, there are over 10,000 trainers who are using this training method everyday.

One advantage to using this form of training at home is it’s easy to learn for both the dog and his trainer!

Originally used to train marine mammals, click and treat breaks down the process into two separate steps, information and motivation. The click is the information, the treat is the motivation. While other trainers still work on these two steps, they try to teach them all at once, which can confuse the animal and slow down results.

Most trainers will verbally praise a dog for good behavior, while at the same time motivating the dog to repeat his actions. This can be a good method, however it takes longer for the dog to understand which behaviors and actions caused the praise from the trainer.

With the click and treat method, the processes are easily taught. In normal training, a person would say “good boy” when a welcomed action occurs and proceed with giving a treat. The clicker becomes a substitute for verbal praise and can actually catch the “good boy” behavior quicker than saying it, letting the dog know exactly which behavior he is being rewarded for.

Another way to look at click and treat training is viewing it as a secondary reinforcement, while food, water, physical affection and play (things the dog wants) become primary reinforcement. When you take a dog for a walk, the leash works as a secondary reinforcement. It is obvious to the dog that the leash is not taking him for a walk; the owner is, however, it triggers a reaction in the dog, telling him that the leash will let him know where he will go and where he will not. And if he reacts to the leash with good behavior, his reward will be a nice leisurely walk.

Click and treat works the same way. When a dog hears the clicker, he will know that he performed a good behavior and as long as he keeps hearing a click, there is a treat coming his way. So, the clicker works as a secondary reinforcement, teaching him boundaries and appropriate behavior.

A couple advantages of the click and treat method include;

1) Faster response than verbal praise. The clicker can identify the exact behavior at the time it happens.

2) It takes the place of treats. While motivating the dog to hear clicks, it will also teach him to work without the expectations of having treats given to him each time he does something good.

3) If the trainer is working at a distance from the dog, the clicker will still work, without having to be right next him.

Are you ready to try clicker training?

The first thing you’ll need to do is go to your favorite pet supply store and invest in a clicker. The clicker is nothing fancy and should just cost you under five dollars. While you’re there grab some pocket treats, little bits of dried liver work well.

A good method to use when getting started with click and treat is to stand in front of the animal. Click the clicker and give a treat. Continue doing this for 20-30 minutes, or until the dog becomes startled by the sound of the click. This will familiarize him to the clicking sound, while teaching him that every time he hears it, he has done something good. After he gets the hang of it, begin by adding commands, such as “sit” and “stay.”

Click and treat has proven to be a simple, yet consistent training method with quick results. So for the trainers out there who are looking for a new and innovative way to motivate and praise their animals, get out there, buy a clicker and... click!

Horses - whirlaway

Before the great horse Citation, who was trained by Ben Jones and ridden by jockey Eddie Arcaro to victory for the 1948 triple crown, there was another horse that they had the distinction of also taking to triple crown glory, one of the most wild horses in all of racing history. His name, Whirlaway.

There is no question about it, Whirlaway was a psychopath as far as horses went. He was quite prone to some wild adventurous trips around a race track. He was actually considered a mentally ill horse, however that is actually determined. He was a danger to himself and those around him. But there was no doubt in Ben Jones' mind that this horse was worth training. In his 3 and 4 year old seasons he ran 42 races, winning 25 of them and finishing second 13 times. Truly amazing for a horse that old. Whirlaway became the first of 8 Kentucky Derby winners and the first of 2 triple crown winners for Calumet Farm.

Whirlaway was the son of Blenheim II. In his 2 year old season he did show some signs of brilliance. He won seven starts which included four stakes races. His early record was actually much better than any other previous triple crown winner. All of them combined only won six races by the age of two. But Whirlaway also lost 9 times that year and began to show signs of very erratic behavior. Many times he would run a race and take his jockey to the outside rail before coming back inside and moving in for the kill. He was a very difficult horse to control because of his mental problems.

At the start of his second year of racing, Whirlaway was still showing signs of extremely erratic behavior and it was feared that he would never be ready for the really big races. He lost his first two races that year and fans were left wondering if he would ever be the great horse that Calumet Farm said he would be.

Well, the fans and the rest of the racing world didn't have to wait long. On May 3, 1941, Whirlaway ran in the Kentucky Derby. Jones had made some modifications to Whirlaway's blinker so that he could see a little better on the left side but not on the right. He also put Eddie Arcaro on Whirlaway, replacing his old jockey Wendall Eads. Arcaro had ridden a previous Kentucky Derby winner of Jones'. When the race started, Whirlaway did his usual bit of staying at the back of the pack. But with just a quarter mile left, Whirlaway took off and left the others in the dust, winning by 8 lengths.

The Preakness was no different. At one point, Whirlaway was trailing by 9 lengths and it appeared that he was out of the race. But again, he came on late and ended up winning the Preakness by 5 1/2 lengths.

Finally, a month later at the Belmont Stakes, Whirlaway notched up his place in racing history. This time he came out strong, building a 7 length lead. Even though he started to tire at the end he still hung on for a 2 1/2 length victory.

Sadly, after he retired and was sold to breed, he died just 10 minutes after being taken to a mare.

Reef tank lighting

Reef Tank lighting is one of the most important aspects of reef keeping and undoubtedly the most discussed debated and disagreed about too!

Proper lighting intensity is essential for the corals to carry out the process of photosynthesis, the process through which they create energy needed to survive and grow. Whatever the approach or equipment be, the ultimate goal of al lighting methods is to provide photoperiod, intensity and proper spectrum for your reef inhabitants to flourish and thrive easily.

The commonly used phrase, "watts per gallon," is a way of expressing the lighting necessary for a tank by the ratio of the power used to illuminate the tank divided by the tank size in gallons. Many hobbyists suggest that an adequate amount of light would vary between four watts and six watts per gallon for low light coral and as much as ten watts per gallon (or more) for light loving coral. While such a rule of thumb may initially sound like a good idea, it should only be used as a rough guideline and not as a strict rule. Obviously, such a loose rule is misleading, and aquarists need to consider more than just "watts per gallon." Specifically, they must take into account the height and overall size of the tank.

Lighting in the reef aquarist parlance is generally expresses in “Watts per gallon”. A thumb rule suggested by many says that light should vary between four to six watts per gallon low light coral and about 10 watts for corals with high light intensity needs. But this is not a hardcore researched rule and should only be used as a rough estimate. There are other factors like the overall height and depth of the tank before making a choice.

A very innovative method of using a multi-light system with timers or controllers to vary the number of lights on at any given time is probably the most effective one. In this system usually one bulb remains on for an hour, then all the bulbs for 10 hours and then just one is left on for next hour. This method actually simulates the sun passing over. This is as close one can get to re create the natural lighting mechanism of the sun.

There is no doubt that steady advances made in the light manufacturing industry have made these equipments better and better and more efficient.

The solution for your reef tank can vary in price from inexpensive to very expensive. What suits you depends upon the kind of life you want in your tank.

Two primary lighting equipments available in the market and widely used are Fluorescents and Metal Halides (MH).

There are several variants of Fluorescents. These are the least expensive or rather value for money choice and are suitable for practically all light choices. These are relatively cool (literally speaking, not metaphorically!). And generally they last for many months before requiring replacement. Examples of different fluorescents are: Normal Output (NO), High Output (HO), very High Output (VHO), Power Compacts (PC) and T5’s.

Among all the variants in fluorescents you can call Power Compacts a next generation fluorescent bulb. They have a modern twin tube design, basically a fluorescent tube that is bent in half. Therefore much greater light intensity is produced than other standard fluorescent variants. The fluorescent tubes are available from 10 to 130 watts and can last up to a year to two.

You should opt for a fluorescent if your reef tank is not very deep. There are some corals like SPS corals for which the light intensity of fluorescent is not enough. So keep these points in mind while thinking of a fluorescent.

The other popular option is the Metal Halides. There are different parameters to be considered here too. They are the most intense of all available lighting systems. If you have a tank which is deeper than 20 inches, this is what you may consider to buy, as halides have greater capacity to penetrate to depths beyond 20 inches. Apart from the utility they beautify your tank also by producing sparkling glitter lines.

So if you want to have a successful reef, know your tank and corals well and then make an informed choice. Only then ‘Let there be Light’!